Sunday, September 30, 2012

Of Science and Slow Service

August 2nd, 2012

There are times in your life when you meet someone or you go some place, and you feel an undefinable energy, a connection, between you and that person or that place. This is what I feel about Chicago, I have been a lot of places in my life but I still feel a connection to this city. It makes it hard to leave every time. Apparently, this feeling was contagious as Andrea and I debated on whether we could stay an extra day or not. After calling Air Miles, and hearing that would cost hundreds of dollars just to extend our stay by a day, it wasn't worth it. We ran through every scenario in our heads and it wasn't worth it for an extra day.

We tried to make the most of the day. First, stopping for quick breakfast at Xoco, celebrity chef Rick Bayless' Mexican restaurant in the heart of Chicago. I think I would liked their lunch or dinner menu better as I was not blown away by their breakfast menu at all. I had the wood-oven chilaquiles, a sort of scramble with tortilla chips and pepper sauce that was decent but nothing that I would go back for. Andrea's Torta was good but not particularly memorable either. Their fresh baked muffins were delicious though, so if you have to grab something in the morning from here- it is the best thing we tried in the place.

After breakfast, we raced by bus to the Museum of Science and Industry. We initially were going to skip this museum because Andrea wasn't super interested in it. Take notes, Ontario Science Centre, this is how a science museum is done. The Henry Crown Space Center alone was very cool- including artifacts from the Apollo and other early space missions, and of course the obligatory space shuttle simulator. The interactive Science Storms exhibit is great for kids and adults alike where avalanches, lightning, tornadoes, and other weather phenomena are recreated in the exhibit. Also, where else are you going to find both a captured German U Boat Submarine and a intricately detailed fairy castle dollhouse in the same place?

We found ourselves running out of time as usual, like other museums, plan to stay here for hours if you want to see everything. We tried to pick and choose what we saw and still found ourselves missing out on a few things we wanted to see. As science museums go, this is definitely one of the best- no matter what age you are.

When we got back to the hotel, we still had a few hours to kill before heading back on the blue line to the airport, so we decided to go to the legendary Gino's East for some Chicago stuffed deep dish pizza. Which is the other variety of deep dish- unlike Lou Malnati's which is more of the Pizzeria Uno basic deep dish style. Located in River North, it is an ultimate tourist landmark for Chicago deep dish lovers. Unfortunately for us, they decided to send half their staff home before an "unexpected rush" at 2pm in the afternoon. It is probably an hour before we even got our family style salad- which was great but it was an hour late. We had to keep on trying to flag down wait staff, as our waiter had disappeared- presumably on lunch break, to get us some food. We had been forgotten.

It took us getting the hostess's attention, who was missing in action for awhile herself, to even get our salad. She apparently had to make it herself. We realize they were busy but there was no attempt even to refill our pepsi up to that point to keep us remotely happy. When the pizza itself finally came, at least 30 minutes after it was supposed to (in addition to the normal deep dish bake times), they were profusely apologetic and promised we would at least get our salad free. The pizza itself (spinach and mushroom deep dish) was very good but the damage was done. Then we got the bill, and the salad was still being charged to us, so we had to wait awhile to get that fixed too. There was such a long wait for tables that a bus full of college students gave us a big cheer as we left the restaurant- probably the most positive thing to come out of the whole visit.

We grabbed our things from the hotel, and headed on the L train to O'Hare. When we got there, Andrea and I were talking about having a Chicago themed party when we got back and I had limited Chicago hot dog supplies back home. The Radioactive green relish and the sport peppers are impossible to find in Canada.

So, I had the bright idea of finding said condiments in the airport like I was always did at the Gold Coast Dogs/Pizza Uno stand. I was a man on a mission. Unfortunately, every Chicago hot dog stand I went to in the airport no longer sold the supplies. We could have probably bought them in Chicago itself but that would have required checking our bags for a crazy fee. Determined, I went from terminal to terminal, realizing this was a bit crazy (i.e. extremely nuts), but still pressed on. Time was running short, so I ended up taking a shuttle back to our terminal but in my delirium was in terminal 2 instead of terminal 3. I had to run back to the gate with little time to spare before we got on the board the plane.

I did make it back in time, despite every possibility that I would not, and we boarded the plane back home.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Ivy League and Pop Art

August 1st, 2012

We started our day heading to the South side of Chicago. The furthest south I'd been previously was US Cellular Field at Sox/45th. Broke new ground by heading to the Osaka Garden on the Wooded Island at Jackson Park. For all the bad wrap that the South Side gets, this is a beautiful oasis in one of Chicago's biggest parks. This Japanese style garden was apparently built for the World's Fair in the 1890s, and still stands as a great place for contemplation or a picnic for that matter. My hope is the next time I am in Chicago that I can explore more of Jackson Park itself.

Just to the west of the park is the Midway Plaisance, another relic of the World's fair that cuts through the University of Chicago. The campus is one of the more majestic campuses in North America, matching the beauty of Harvard both in it's architecture and parkland. The only hitch was that they were in the midst of construction work near the main quadrangle in the centre of campus.

While at the university, we went to the Rockefeller Chapel, named for it's patron, John D Rockefeller, towers over the campus. The chapel is not too gaudy but acts more as an art gallery- including sculptures, paintings, and stainglass.

We moved on to the Robie House, one of architect Frank Lloyd Wright's most iconic buildings (in the "prairie style"). Unfortunately for us, my guide book was out of date and it is no longer open on Tuesdays. We walked around the building, trying to get as much of a look at it, as you could without actually going inside. So we pressed ahead, walking around campus until we headed to Medici for some great tasting sandwiches at the cafe. Next door is the main restaurant where you can find more substantial eats like the half pound hot dog, spinach lasagna, burgers, or one of their many pizzas.

After lunch, we headed back downtown. It took forever for the bus to come, and we were tempted several times to hop on the Metra and pay the extra money. In retrospect, we probably should have done it. Traffic was horrible once got closer to the Museum Campus- thanks to closed streets in preparation for Lollapalooza. We did however get back in time to the Art Institute of Chicago.

We met my friend Maya there as she was interested in seeing the Lichtenstein exhibit. The Art Institute is a massive beautiful building filled with art from the time of the Khmer Empire to modern day. It is definitely meant for multiple visits. The Lichtenstein exhibit itself was fairly large, and it took awhile to comb through all that pop art. If you don't know much about Lichtenstein, a lot of his more recognizable work was based on old comic books and ads. He was also known to make works of art parodying other popular art.

With limited time in the Art Institute, we tried to get in all the Van Goghs, sculptures, and American Contemporary Art we could before it closed. I made sure we saw American Gothic and my personal favorite, the Edward Hopper classic- Nighthawks before we left.

One Last Night in Chicago

With an invite from Maya to check out a friend's band at Shuba's later that night, we decided to grab some food from somewhere close by. We headed over to Rockit Bar and Grill in River North for some of their much famed burgers. We grabbed some rockit pockets (cheese, steak, and onions wrapped together), and some brews to start (I got a bottle of the tasty Bells Oberon that I tried in Detroit last year). I had the tasty "The Vegetarian Burger" which is a red bean burger with cheese and peppers- although I was tempted to get the Kobe beef based Rockit Burger or the Cinammon Raisin Grilled Cheese. The truffle fries did not really impress me but too each their own.

After dinner, we headed up to Schuba's but as usual just barely missed our train north, and were delayed getting up there. By the time, we got there, Maya's friend's band, Dozens were wrapping up their last song. In the many times, I had been to Chicago, I had never been to Schuba's but it has an almost Rivoli (for you Torontonians out there) feel to it, where the stage/concert area is separated from the main bar and restaurant. Maya bought us a round of drinks and we talked before the next band came on- which was Brooklyn's Fort Lean, which Andrea took to almost immediately. They were alt rock with somewhat of retro vibe to them. His voice seem to be infectious, and we were all caught in a trance until the set was over. Refilled our drinks, talked some more but by the time the headliner, Bear Hands was on, it was time to go to bed.

We said our goodbyes to Maya, a fun night out in tow, and drifted back to our hotel for one last day in Chicago.

Next blog...."Of Science and Slow Service"



Wednesday, August 22, 2012

It's Still The Sears Tower to Me

July 31st, 2012

The day did not start well, I had dumbly checked my twitter the night before and found out that Travis Snider had been traded to the Pittsburgh Pirates- the very team we had watched the previous night. I knew I was going to have to break it to Andrea that her favorite player had been moved overnight. She took the news about as well as expected, and basically said "why did you tell me that for?". But we moved on and started the day without further diversion.

With a lot of talk in the news lately about the conditions at Marineland (Niagara Falls), I will say that Shedd Aquarium has the opposite reputation as far as I can see. There is an active effort at preserving species, and many stories came up about the scientists saving fish and water mammals from certain death in the wild. Whether it be otters with a missing limbs or a stingray with a clipped fin, there was a feeling they were trying to do something good.

When we got to the Aquarium, there were swarms of screaming children with their parents in tow both in line and once we got into the aquarium. Having been there before, I was ready to skip the Rivers exhibit as its probably the least interesting exhibit but this was all new to Andrea, so took a 2nd look around. It was cool to see creatures from the Mekong since we spent two days riding up it in Laos a year ago (see: "The Slow Ride Up the Mekong").

The Caribbean and Wild Reef exhibits stand out above the rest. The 360 tank of the Caribbean reef and the expansive tanks in the Wild Reef immerse you in the ocean habitat without actually putting you in the water. There are numerous species in there including sea turtles, sharks, rays, eels, and an array of tropical fish. You can actually see the Aquarium growing real coral as well. Although a long lineup to get in, the new Jellies exhibit is pretty cool. Who knew there were  Jellyfish that looked like egg yolk? Other than a marine biologist I mean.

We had a couple of bonuses included in our City Pass admission. The Planet Earth 4D experience, which is basically a blu-ray compilation of Planet Earth highlights in 3D. It also added little tactile effects including mist, bubbles, and getting jabbed by your seat in the back when a shark attacks- seriously. Also included was the Aquatic show which is more 'educational' than anything. There are not a whole lot of amazing tricks showcased but is about teaching you how they get the sea creatures to take their medicine and do small tricks by making it into a game. If you're interested in checking the show out, try and bring something to sit on- the pebbled rock steps are hard and hurt your butt after a lot of sitting.

For lunch, we headed over to Potbelly's on Michigan Ave. I know this is a chain but I think they have some of the best sandwiches out there. Think Quizno's but tastier. I had the turkey and it was melt in your mouth good. We considered numerous times going back here for lunch but alas we did not. Please bring these to Toronto- Detroit and Cleveland is not close enough.

Full of sandwich glory, we headed on to the Sears Tower (aka the Willis Tower). I know it's name changed but like Wrigley Field, I don't think it should have ever changed- it's iconic Chicago. The City Pass and its line skipping powers helped us out a lot this time. As droves of people of waited in each line, we pass through in express fashion. The only line that we couldn't bypass was that to the sky ledge- which takes the glass floor from the CN Tower one step further putting you 4 feet off the end of the building into a glass box. It would have been pretty cool to how over my fear of heights I am but too many people had the same idea. The views are spectacular but for some reason I liked the John Hancock better- I guess because you could sit down and enjoy a drink near the top. The Sears Tower does have a restaurant, the Metropolitan club but it is on the 67th floor, not the 103rd.

After walking all over town, and dealing with crowds we opted to stay in River North for dinner. We settled on Sushi Samba Rio.  It is an interesting combination of Japanese, Brazilian, and Peruvian cuisines. Sounded liked a cool concept and the menu looked good but it was definitely pricey for what you got. We spent probably around $70 including one drink- the bar gave my beer for free because they didn't have the size of bottle I ordered. The meals were meant for sharing but neither of us were satiated afterwards. The food quality itself was excellent and the waitress was very accommodating and friendly. The decor was cool as well but the meal just did not satisfy us. Sushi Samba is definitely more suited to the executive crowd than the tourist on a moderate budget.

We ended up having to head over to Portillo's hot dogs to fill our stomachs. This place screams tourist because it tries to fill all the Chicago classics under one roof. It is East Side Mario's for Chicago, but with an array of food in one place. It was started as a hot dog stand in Chicago by a Chicagoan in the 60s but had evolved since then. They are definitely going for an old-thyme feel in the restaurant. The hot dog was good and did the job it needed to do- leave us not wanting more. Afterwards, we grabbed a few drinks, and settled back into our hotel room for the night.
 
 Next blog..."Ivy League and Pop Art"...

Friday, August 17, 2012

The End of the Wrigley Curse

July 30, 2012

You may ask yourself, how did he end the Wrigley Curse? The World Series hasn't even happened yet, and the Cubs are long out of the playoffs for this year. Well, if that was the curse you thought I was referring to, you would be wrong. It is my own Wrigley Curse. Previous to this night, I had seen two games at Wrigley Field- once against the Nationals in 2005, the other against the Orioles in 2008- both losses for the home team. I have seen the White Sox win at the Cell, but I had never seen a win for the Cubbies at the Friendly Confines. Well tonight was the night, or rather July 30th was but that tale will come shortly.

In the morning, we had all the best intentions to wake up early, but we ended up going out  around 9:30am if we were lucky, and made our way up Michigan Avenue, checking out the shops and scenery along the way. Andrea was intent on clothes shopping but I could not be bothered for the most part. I am rarely in the mood to do clothes shopping, as it is hard to find something that I like that will fit me. I stopped in a Teavana at the North Bridge Mall, and tried a sample of some Mate/White Tea blend and was sold on buying a cup to take along with me. I also got some tourist advice from the helpful staff. They recommended that we skip the tour at the John Hancock Center, and just go to the Signature Lounge for a drink, and they if we were going to a museum in Chicago, we had to go to the Museum of Science and Industry.

After some more shopping,  we headed up to Oak Street and tried to take a look at the shops there.Andrea did not feel dressed up enough to get in these ritzy establishments, so we got out of there quickly. Before heading upstairs to the John Hancock Center, we stopped by the historic Drake Hotel for a quick look. It was beautiful in there, definitely got the feeling that it would be really expensive to stay there but the hotel staff did not give us any trouble for just looking.

We got up to the top of the John Hancock Center with little time to spare before we had to head back to the hotel. The view was pretty impressive from up there, but the drinks were a little steep. Word to the wise, you can buy a non-alcoholic drink and it is much cheaper, and still fulfill their "one drink minimum". A brief stopover to take in the view and we were back to the hotel, to drop off Andrea's purchases, and freshen up before heading to Wrigley.

There was no time for lunch. We were so pressed for time that we missed the "L" that would have to go to us to our Wrigley tour on time. They were able to rush us to the group as they hadn't started the bulk of the tour yet. I was expecting some ribbing at our expense from the tour guide but none came. By this time in the day, the air in the stadium was oppressively hot and hunger started to set in. Andrea thought the Fenway tour was better but I think they were equally as good, and where else would you find out that Wrigley Field was the first stadium to ever have a concession stand. Well maybe, the internet.

After the tour, we head to the closest restaurant we could find, which was The Sports Corner. The food was good- we had shared a Jalapeno Stuffed Pretzel, Andrea had the Chicago Style Hot Dog and I had another Chicago classic- the Italian Beef. My sandwich was at first disappointing as they did not put anything on it despite the menu offering a choice of peppers and cheese. I brought this to the attention of a waitress, and they made up for it by bringing me some sweet peppers and au jus.

GAME TIME

I love the Blue Jays, but my National League team has always been the Cubs. Chicago feels like a 2nd home town to me, even though I am from Winnipeg, lived in Hamilton, and now live in Toronto (which is my real home now- sorry 'Peg). Maybe I'm a sucker for lost causes too, and that's probably why I bought a 1908 Chicago Cubs shirt (to celebrate their World Series from 104 years ago) and an old style Cubs hat at the Cubs official store.

The game was slow to start but then it exploded. The Cubs had 9 run 5th inning, which put the game way out of reach. Rizzo, Barney, and Castro all had multi-run homers during the game, and we got to see the last at bats of former Cubs' Reed Johnson and Geovany Soto- they got traded to the Braves and Rangers that night. Little did we know, the Pirates had also sent their reliever Brad Lincoln to the Jays for beloved LF Travis Snider.

In addition to enjoying the many Cub runs, we grabbed some souvenir cups- which were discounted 25% off, as all concessions are for the first hour after the gate is open. Mid-way through the game, I grabbed some chili-cheese tater tots (what is with Chicagoans and their tater tots?) which were surprisingly delicious but messy. Also, I grabbed some caramel corn that Andrea had been craving. I asked if I could have a refill on my souvenir cup for a reduced price, and the concessions people gave me a weird look. I guess that's the one good thing they have at the Skydome (aka Rogers Centre). When all was said and done, the Cubs gave a smackdown to the Pirates to the tune of 14-4.

And that is how the curse was ended...

Next blog..."It's Still the Sears Tower to Me"

Wednesday, August 8, 2012

It's a Zoo Out Here

July 29, 2012

We awoke as early as can be expected, which is not early at all. We didn't leave the hotel room till about 10am. After grabbing quick bite to eat, nothing remarkable, otherwise I would have remembered it, we walked along the river, taking snapshots of the amazing Chicago skyline. There is something that just carries weight to it, maybe it's the mishmash of architectural styles, or the history, the city has a character that definitive and present. All along the river, there is landmarks abound, the relatively modern style of 333 Wacker Drive to the massive Merchandise Mart to the stately Wrigley and Tribune buildings. I have to admit I still have a slight giggle (albeit internally) when the 'L' announces "doors open on the right at Merchandise Mart". Who names a building that literally? Anyway, still a cool place to visit and look at furnishings that most of us can't possibly afford.

After some sightseeing, we make our way to the tourist traps of tourist traps- Navy Pier! Chicago encapsulated into an easily digestible piece along the waterfront. The food and drinks are naturally overpriced, and really I only went back because this was Andrea's first time in Chicago. We did not go on the Ferris Wheel, or take one of the many boat cruises that are available, but instead opted for a walk along the boardwalk, to check out the view of Lake Michigan- the best part about Navy Pier. If there is something hidden and fantastic that I don't know about the Pier, I am open to your suggestions. And if this blog was popular, I am sure the folks at Navy Pier would fly me down to take another look around the place to change my opinion. But alas, this is not true...

The patios do seem nice for a beer on summer's day and I was tempted to watch The Dark Knight Rises for a second time, in IMAX, but we had a lot of ground to cover. Since we were on a tight schedule, we headed back towards Merchandise Mart and went to McDonald's and regretted it as soon as we did it. First of all, who goes to McDonald's on their holidays? There was $2.99 value meal, and I was trying to save money for dinner later. The poor cashier had a lot of trouble deciphering my order of two value meals, even though I pointed to the sign behind him and said "One McChicken meal and One Cheeseburger Meal". We ended up with one more cheeseburger than we should have and way too many fries, and mismatched drinks, but by this point, I had no energy to argue.

After a short rest in our hotel room, we went up to Old Town to check out St Michael's Church which has a long and storied history- including surviving the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. I always find it is slightly creepy to be in an empty church, like some old Priest was going to come out of the shadows and give you a heart attack. The decorative nature of the church is quite extensive, featuring numerous altars of religious figures, and huge stainglass windows, all quite detailed. I found it all a bit much, but it is a part of Chicago history.

From there, we went up to Lincoln Park Zoo. This place is always a good time in Chicago for people of all ages, and it is free everyday of the year. The Zoo is located in beautiful Lincoln Park, and there is so much to see. Andrea even remarked that the Zoo was better than our own Zoo in Toronto in that you feel like you are actually in the wilderness at times, and there is an old time feel to it. The crowds were huge, but it was to expected for a Sunday afternoon in the summer. The only peculiar thing was that a lot of the animals seemed to be on dinner break. The ever popular seals we nowhere to be found.

While in the park, we made our way by accident, to the Lincoln Park Conservatory. It is hard to believe that parts of the building is around 120 years old. Each area of the conservatory has its own look and feel showcasing anything from Ferns to Orchids to Tropical Plants. A random dude tried to give me photography pointers, but none of which actually worked. He seemed very happy with himself for whatever reason, so I just played along and nodded for awhile until he was out of sight.

When we finally made it back to the hotel, we were starving, and Andrea was in the mood for some Mexican food. I scoured some material we got from the concierge and consulted urbanspoon just to be sure. We decided on Zocalo, a hip looking restaurant on W Ontario street with something resembling authentic food, of course with the modern 'twists'. Word to the wise, read the bar menu for specials, we found out that we could get our meal for half price if we bought an appetizer and dessert.

For our appetizer, had the essential trio de guacamole- which has three types of chips and of course three types of guacamole giving you a taste of the traditional variety, sweet, and spicy. This Andrea went with the fish tacos for dinner, while I went for the Enchiladas Rojas which has great tasting barbacoa beef brisket in red salsa (not the old el paso variety). I swapped an enchilada for a taco with Andrea, and they were definitely one of the better fish tacos I've tasted. Finally, for dessert we had the churros which came with a rich chocolate masa drink, which would have been too much if it were not in such a small portion.

After dinner, we did the traditional American pilgrimage to 7 Eleven for some beer before retiring to our hotel room for the night.

Next blog...."The End of the Wrigley Curse"

Tuesday, August 7, 2012

2nd Wind for the 2nd City

July 28, 2012

On the blue line coming back from O'Hare, I am blurry eyed, having only an hour long sleep the night before, and a power nap on the plane coming in, I explain to Andrea that we will have about an hour before we actually get downtown. I try to make conversation with her in the crowded 'L' train but what I am saying is probably something resembling gibberish or mediocre small talk at best.

Once we get downtown, we are far too early to check-in at our hotel, so we check our bags and put our name in for the next available room. They say they'll call us...right. We look up places to eat on wi-fi but realize nothing opens till 11:00am. We kill a bit of time roaming River North until Lou Malnati's opens up, in hope of grabbing some deep dish pizza as soon as they open. The service is great, and we get a tasty house salad to start followed by some personal size deep dish. I get "The Lou", which is a vegetarian pizza while Andrea gets a meat pizza. The only downside is that they give her extra garlic instead of olives by mistake. I've been told by quite a few people that most Chicagoans regard Lou Malnati's as the best. It was definitely up there but it is the Pizza Uno style of Chicago deep dish not the stuffed variety that you find at Giordano's or Gino's East. I personally am partial to the "touristy" Giordano's but that's just me.

After lunch, we headed over to Grant Park and Millennium Park, which were already getting ready for Lollapalooza at the time, so you could not walk everywhere you wanted to. It was hot and humid, making it perfect weather for getting cool under the Crown Fountain in Millennium Park. Apparently, throngs of children had the exact same idea, but I second guessed it when I realized I was still carrying my camera. From then on, I got uneasy whenever some menacing mist approached. At "the bean" or Cloud Gate as it is really called, scavenger hunt participants were dressed in tutus and other crazy costumes jumping up in front of the art in hopes of getting a perfect photo.

We dashed into the Art Institute of Chicago's courtyards for some shade, and to relax a bit. It is very beautiful in there, it's easy to forget that Michigan avenue is right beside you. We took some photos, and then were on our way back to our hotel near Merchandise Mart (Holiday Inn Chicago Mart) to check-in. I sent off a quick message to my friend, Maya, who had invited us out to her drummer's b-day party near Wicker Park. Considering we were stopping for a nap in the hotel room, we would not be able to make it. She reminded me that Wicker Park Fest was going on, and I found out that I got the day wrong, and the band, Kill Hannah was playing that night instead of Sunday. We compromised and decided we would meet here there and have some street eats. Andrea and I crashed in the hotel room until it was time to go.

Andrea and I met Maya at Damen Blue Line near the Double Door, and at first I did not recognize her, it had been a few years and it is just one of those things where you are not sure of yourself- especially when half asleep.Once identities were confirmed, paid a meager $5 donation, and we made our way through the crowds to grab some empanadas and beer, and explored the area before the show started. It was tough to hear each other but we made the most of it.

When Kill Hannah finally took the stage, I noticed how small it was compared to some of the stages that I had seen them on. The most notable being at Metro when they played Act 4 over a decade ago. This was a homecoming of sorts for the band, they rehearsed and lived in this area for many years. The lead singer, Mat Devine had come back from living in New York the last couple of years, and the set was a mix of new and old.Reaching back to "Hummingbirds The Size of Bullets" all the way to a version of "Strobe Lights".  The crowd went wild went the band broke out a well rehearsed rendition of the Smashing Pumpkins, "Cherub Rock" while beach balls bounced around the audience. It reminded me a lot of that Act 4 night in July 2001, except their version sounded a lot better this time around. Fittingly, the last song of the night was "Welcome To Chicago".

Next blog.... "It's a Zoo Out Here"